La Pescheria: where Sicilian culture comes to life

Everything you need to know before visiting the local fish market of Catania

Catania, the second-largest city in Sicily, is located on the eastern coast of the island at the foot of Mount Etna. This vibrant city is renowned for its dynamic food scene, making it a top destination for travelers. Among the many things to do in Catania, visiting La Pescheria - Sicily’s largest fish market - is a highlight you won’t want to miss. We gathered the best tips for exploring this energetic market and asked local fishmongers about their favorite fish. Experience La Pescheria as a local and enjoy the shouts, atmosphere, and chaos that this unique market has to offer.

Sicily on a plate

From the moment you set foot on the island, it’s clear: Sicilians have a deep passion for food. Influenced by the Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Normans, and Catalans, Sicily boasts a rich and diverse culinary tradition. Many dishes might evoke flavors reminiscent of various Mediterranean cuisines. Think of dishes with couscous in the south of Sicily, or the combination of sardines, pine nuts, and raisins - a blend of sweet and salty that recalls Arab influences.

In addition to fresh vegetables like eggplant, artichoke, fennel and tomato, fish and seafood play a crucial role in Sicilian gastronomy. The best way to experience this varied food culture is by visiting a local market. At the renowned La Pescheria fish market, you'll find yourself fully immersed in Sicilian culture.

Catch of the day

As soon as you arrive at La Pescheria, you're immediately struck by its vibrant atmosphere. The colorful market, with bright parasols shielding the fish from the sun, captures the essence of Sicily - chaotic, rugged, and full of character.

This historic fish market is celebrated for its lively energy; fishmongers yell prices and proudly boast about the freshness of their catch, all while eagerly negotiating with customers. The exchanges unfold in Sicilian dialect, often unintelligible to outsiders.

La Pescheria springs to life at dawn. As the sun rises, fishermen arrive with their catch of the day. Throughout the morning, market stalls brim with a diverse selection of fresh seafood, caught just hours earlier from the azure waters of the Mediterranean. Proud fishmongers display the island’s specialties, cleaning and chopping whole fish at their tables. Enormous swordfish (known as pisci spata in Sicily) heads stand with their swords pointing skyward, while stiff, curled-up fish signal their freshness. Oysters are shucked before your eyes, drizzled with lemon juice, and ready to be savored on the spot.

Besides the fish in the main square, you can indulge your love for other local produce at the market. The surrounding streets are filled with fresh fruit, vegetables and various traditional Sicilian goods. Inhale the aroma of traditional spices, buy a freshly made arancino at one of the stalls, or enjoy a Seltz, limone e sale - a refreshing drink from Catania that combines zesty lemon juice, sparkling water, and a unique touch of salt, found at kiosks around the market.

Exploring the market is sure to work up an appetite. Fortunately, the area is lined with cozy restaurants serving freshly caught fish and other local specialties. Savor a plate of fritto misto, mixed fried fish, or involtini di pesce spada, baked swordfish rolls, while overlooking the bustling fish market.

The fishmongers of La Pescheria

To learn more about La Pescheria and its traditions, we spoke with two fishmongers, both named Lorenzo. They shared their experiences working at this market, discussed the challenges of the trade, and highlighted the local fish you absolutely must try.

Lorenzo, fishmonger at La Pescheria - "Fishing is a tradition that has to be passed down from generation to generation."

 Lorenzo, a dedicated fishmonger at La Pescheria, hails from a long line of fishermen and has spent over twenty years preserving the family trade. He hopes to pass this cherished tradition on to his son.

“I come from a long line of fishermen. My father was a fisherman, as were my grandparents. As a child, I spent all my time at the harbor, practically growing up on the boats. I have beautiful memories of my youth on the water, memories that still give me chills. Being the youngest, I was responsible for doing the dishes - even when I was seasick - but on the boat, we were like family. There was a deep sense of respect.

I began fishing at the age of eight, and by the time I was twenty, I had become a captain. Along the way, I noticed that outsiders were selling our fish, and things weren’t going well. So, I taught myself how to sell fish.

This work gives me great satisfaction - from handling the fish to interacting with customers at the market. However, being a fisherman can be stressful, as your income depends heavily on the weather. Everything has changed in the past 20 years. Many fishermen have sold their boats due to skyrocketing expenses and stricter regulations.

After twenty years of working at La Pescheria, I’m well-known in Catania's fish market. Fishing is in my blood; it’s a tradition that must be passed down from generation to generation. My son is 14 now, and when the time is right, I’ll pass this work on to him.”

Lorenzo, fishmonger at La Pescheria - "I fell in love with the job."

Lorenzo has been a fishmonger at La Pescheria since 1987. Passionate about preserving local culinary traditions, he showcases his favorite Sicilian specialty, the Masculina da Magghia.

“I’ve been a fishmonger at La Pescheria since 1987, introduced to the trade by my uncle when I was 14. Although my father, a fisherman, wanted me to study law, I chose to embrace this profession. When my uncle retired, he passed the baton to me, and I fell in love with the job.

We start every morning at 4 AM to buy the freshest fish in the harbor, then head to La Pescheria to sell it. We work every day except for holy Sunday; Sundays are reserved for family.

In all the years I have worked at La Pescheria, a lot has changed. Nowadays, you can buy fish everywhere - in every supermarket - so people are less inclined to visit artisan markets. Working as a fishmonger here used to bring me great satisfaction, but due to the declining number of visitors, it’s becoming harder each year. Nonetheless, I still enjoy working at this market.

My favorite local fish is the Masculina da Magghia, a type of Sicilian anchovy found only in Catania. Known as anciuvazzu and anciuvurineddu in Sicilian, this Slow Food presidium gets its name from the traditional fishing method using tratte, a drift net. The anchovies' heads get caught in the mesh, known as maglie, causing them to bleed naturally, resulting in a tastier product. This ancient technique dates back to the Greeks.

The best time to fish for Masculina da Magghia is from April to July, although they can be caught year-round. They’re delicious when grilled, fried, or breaded, and I prefer to marinate the smaller ones.”

Visit La Pescheria as a local

You truly experience the full ambiance in the middle of the fish market as you stroll past the lively stalls. But once you've completed your round, head up the stairs on the side of Piazza del Duomo. Weave through the local fish enthusiasts and lean over the railing to witness the spectacle from above. Trust us: you’ll see all the action from this vantage point.

Where

Piazza Alonzo di Benedetto, Catania

When

La Pescheria is open daily, except for Sunday, from 7:00 AM to 02:00 PM.

The best time to visit the market is early in the morning, around 8 to 9 AM, when the stalls are still full and the fish is at its freshest. The busiest period occurs between 10 AM and 12 PM, as local visitors and bystanders wander around the stalls. Don’t arrive too late, as most stalls begin closing by noon.

What to wear

Because the market floor is covered in water and fish scraps, we recommend wearing proper shoes that are easy to clean.